A particular type of loot that you will only find in the Barony. The jacket is the most important part of Baronial dress and custom, and a properly tailored and fitted jacket made with expensive materials is the quickest way to signal your social standing to a crowd of Baronials. They are mostly cut square-shouldered, and typically flat to the body (one of the reasons many Baronial women bind their chests). A dizzying profusion of fabrics, worked ornamentation, and stitching, collaring, hemming, and lining styles exist, and the fashion-conscious Capital types will try to stay on-style where they can.
In the provinces and petty kingdoms, more staid and classical styles prevail, and ostentation is considered garish and childish. Most nobility will have a recogniseable style associated with their house (in much the same way as jewellery), and individual flourishes will derive from that standardised form.
A jacket takes up 1 INV to transport without damaging it, or 3/INV if you don't care about that.
It has a cut, lining, material, accents, and ornamentation, rolled on the tables below.
Its worth in silver is calculated by the fineness of the tailoring, the rarity and beauty of the material, and the 'boldness' or 'risk' of the whole. Boldness is not always a positive: a risky design that comes off will be more a lot more than something 'safer', but has a greater chance of becoming laughable, and thus worth nothing at all.
When determining the worth of a jacket, add together the material, accent and ornamentation values - this is the base value of the jacket.
Boldness is a random number between 1 and 4. When you attempt to sell the jacket, roll equal to or over the boldness on a d4 to multiply the value by the boldness score. If instead to roll under the boldness, the jacket is judged garish or naive, and worth 0.1 of the normal price.
If the jacket is damaged in any way its value is 0.25 usual.
The above rules assume that you spend at least one entire day doing nothing but trying to sell an individual piece to known, interested buyers. If selling in bulk (when found as loot, jackets will often come in entire wardrobes), instead use the following:
Roll material, accent, and ornamentation once for every 5 jackets in the wardrobe, or for every 20 if it is very large. Use the lowest values generated, and then half that numbers - this is the base cost for each item. Jackets sold in bulk this way do not have a 'boldness', and you might be able to slip some damaged items in (certainly no more than 1 in 5) without the buyer realising.
Cut
- 1 - 6: Classic. A box-cut, short hemmed, lapel-less, gender-neutral light jacket. Most people in the Barony, even in poor families, will own one of these for special occasions or serious meetings where propriety is important. You can buy a 'basic' - that is, a cheap, tailored, un-ornamented cotton jacket in this cut - for about 15s in most settlements, and wearing one is considered 'good enough' or 'passing' by most people. Occasions where Baronials will expect you to be in a jacket: any meeting with nobility or a potential employer, and meeting with a priest or saint, when working in a public-facing professional role. Even most of the expensive and gorgeous jackets in the Barony are patterned on this style.
- 7: Masculine/Feminine. Popularly known as a 'popped' or 'alter' jacket - tailored to accentuate the bust and hips and face (for a feminine jacket), or the shoulders, throat, and wrists (for a masculine). Will always raise an eyebrow in professional company, and can be outright banned in the provinces. Nonetheless, a popular option for young hotheads and firebrands. The masculine/feminine split does not cleanly map to men and women - a man wearing a 'feminine' cut is just as bold and a man wearing a 'masculine' one, and the same holds for women. A Masculine/Feminine jacket rolls a d3+1 in place of a d4 for its Boldness score.
- 8: Long. Long jackets that reach to the thigh, or even below the knee in some examples. Extremely, even embarrassingly, old-fashioned in the Capital, but still sometimes seen in the petty kingdoms as a marker of noble rank. There are Bravos in the Capital who wear long jackets to signal that they have moved truly beyond the judgement of society. Long jackets are typically worth 0.75 the usual to buyers outside of the provincial nobility.
- 9: Hooded. Not often seen in the cities, and strongly linked to mercenary and kill team culture. They are usually called campaign jackets, or sometime 'militants', and wearing them is a bit like wearing an army uniform in public, with the associated risk of being found out and having the shit kicked out of you by real mercenaries if it turns out that you are not one. The hood is typically loose, and sometime detachable - designed to be worn over the top of helmets, or even attached to arming harness.
- 10: 'Total'. The so-called 'total' jacket is a recent innovation, a cultural import from the White City, and is essentially a tailored and ornamented one-piece flight or boiler suit. They are sought-after and expensive, and also borderline scandalous in polite company. In the capital a 'total' signals modernity and keen aesthetic sense - in the provinces you can offer grave offence by even suggesting wearing one. A Total jacket rolls a d3+1 in place of a d4 for its Boldness score, and is additionally worth 1.5 (in the capital) or .1 (everywhere else) after all other modifiers have been taken into account.
Material
- 1 - 5: Cotton. The most common fabric for Baronial jackets, dyed and cut in a profusion of different styles and fashions. It can be sewn tight or loose, draped and collected, and is medium hard-wearing. If the Baronials had a business suit, it would be a cotton jacket (to show taste and restraint), accented with expensive ornamentation (to show wealth and personal taste). 50s.
- 6 - 7: Wool. Heavy, harder-wearing, typically dyed-in, woven as a piece, and as such very slightly less adaptable than cotton. A good woollen jacket will also insulate you in the winter. Some Baronials prefer it to cotton, and expressing taste this way is well within acceptable societal bounds. 50s.
- 8: Bouclé. A tricky and expensive wool-cotton blend, considered beautiful and appropriate for formal settings and celebrations. Many of the best tailors in the Capital will only work in bouclé. Always acceptable and aspirational, even when techincally off-fashion. 100s. A jacket made from boucle rolls it boldness on a d3 instead of a d4.
- 9: Rag. Rag is a fabric created by laboriously sewing together offcuts - it is new, modern, fashionable, and much-maligned by the powers that be. Rag can be dyed after its construction, or worked into untouched. It lends a jacket a very recogniseable shaggy, 'dense' look. Equally beloved by bravos, students, and wealthy young aristocrats. 75s. A jacket made in rag rolls Boldness on a d3+1 instead of a d4, and in general cannot be sold to the nobility. Some conservative tailors will loathe you on sight, for the principle of the thing.
- 10: Chiffon. Sheer, nearly weightless, expensive to import from the north. Extremely eye-catching, though not universally loved - many Baronials lament the lack of surface texture, and the difficulty of incorporating ornamentation. It is not often used for an entire garment, and may only be work into the sleeves, as an example. 150s, but no roll on the Ornamentation table.
Lining
- 1 - 5: Cotton. The most common lining for jackets - inexpensive, comfortable, easily dyed and sewn, relatively hard-wearing. Safe and respectable.
- 6 - 7: Quilted. Thermal layering that will keep you warm in the cold Baronial winter. Bulks up the silhouette quite a bit, which some people like and some people hate. Wearing this out of season marks you as eccentric. Rarely, jackets will be cut to mimic the thicker shape without the thermal qualities.
- 8: Proofed. A 'proofed' jacket incorporate actual protective elements into the lining, typically bands of iron, but sometimes also simple layered fabric armour. Baronial tailors are very good at getting the lines 'right', and making this process difficult to spot, but most natives will mark it quickly. A proofed jacket counts as (expensive, exquisite) light armour.
- 9: Pockets. Most baronial jackets eschew pockets, because they are thought to detract from the elegance of beauty of the 'classic' shapes. Some mercenaries, fixers, and other professionals sew pockets (mock or functional) into the outside of their jackets to symbolise their professionalism. Some sew pockets into the lining, to carry pipes, necessaries, and sometimes concealed weapons - this is considered rough and uncouth behaviour, and sewing them in would be unbecoming of a 'real' tailor. You probably won't be able to sell a jacket with pockets sewn in to anyone in the nobility.
- 10: 'Mirrored'. An alchemically treated lining - not actually mirrored in any real sense, but shifting, opalescent, 'metallic' fabric, which many people consider beautiful. Even those who find it hideous will accept that it is fantastically expensive to produce. A jacket with a mirrored lining is worth 1.5 its usual price after all other modifiers have been taken into account.
Accent
- 1 - 4: None. Sometimes the classics need no embellishment.
- 5 - 6: Piping. Piping is a recent invention in the capital, and serves to accentuate and offset the cut, colouration, and fabric choices of a jacket. Broadly considered a virtuous invention, even by purists and pedants. No one will look twice at it.
- 7: Lapels. Lapels are associated with Stewards, military officers, politicians, and the ultra-formal tuxedo-shape. It is very presumptuous to add them to your jacket if you do not hold some high office or position of rank - something like designing and wearing your own military uniform or military medals. Jackets with lapels sewn in are generally second hand, passed down from those who have earned them. Some bravos like the look and don't care what other people think.
- 8: Wrist and Throat Ties. A common accent that mimics Baronial throat and wrist jewellery without the associated cost. Considered in good taste, and appropriate for work clothing. The ties can be simple bows, or worked into decorative knots and other flourishes. Adds 10s to a jacket's value.
- 9: Puffed and Slashed. Ostentatious, tough, amusing, 'party wear', sometimes worn for duels and other physical confrontations, or when someone needs to signal bravery and prowess. Mercenaries and bravos love puffed sleeves, and most wealthy Baronials will have a set to put on if they need to. Not needing to put the sleeves on is a core part of what an adult Baronial would consider social and political success, but you'd be a fool to get rid of them entirely. Adds 10s to a jacket's value.
- 10: Belting/Chest-Rig. A working person's embellishment - leather ties at the joints to keep the fabric close to the body. Might even incorporate mock or functional arming points for harness, and sheathes, holsters, tools, &c. A fixer might wear a chest rig to a meeting with their client to signal pragmatism and ruthlessness. Adds 20s to a jackets value when selling to someone who might appreciate the specific rig, and -20s to someone who doesn't care.
Ornamentation
- 1 - 4: None. Simplicity itself. You might receive muted appreciation for your restraint and good taste.
- 5 - 6: Fabric Roses. A Baronial standard with an extremely long history, and the type of ornamentation most strongly associated with Baronials in the minds of foreigners. Fabric roses are archetypal, and truly timeless. Labour intensive to produce, very beautiful, and nearly always appreciated. Fabric roses confer a -1 to Boldness, and add 25s to a jacket's value.
- 7: Scene Work. An uncommon ornament, often a painted, dyed, embroidered, or sewn image - usually on the large panels that make up the back and front of the jackets, but ocassionally also running down the sleeves. Images vary, but are generally iconic or religious in flavour: the combination of blood-red sea and sun is very common, as are chaos scenes and elaborate scared timelines. This practice is often thought to be a cultural offshoot of the image game of the Imperial territories, but the Baronials will insist that its roots are indigenous. 10s.
- 8: Pearls. Pearls are a common and expensive ornament, and usually sewn into the fabric in regular patterns and 'nets'. The seas of the Barony (and particularly around the Lantern berth) produce the best pearls in the world, and they are famously of many different colours. White pearls signify wealth, red pearls sexual potency, black pearls academic learning, blue and purple pearls personal combat prowess, and yellow pearls piousness. Dream pearls are only fished from the islands, and shift their colours under the eye. Roll a d6 to determine which this jacket is sewn with. Adds 50s in value, or 100s if the buyer identifies with the specific colour of pearls. Dream pearls always add 100s due to their rarity, and if worn while sleeping they will always show up on your clothing in the Dreamlands, and grant you a +1 on reactions rolled there.
- 9: Thread-of-Gold. Worked with gold (or much more commonly, gold-alloy) wiring. In good taste, this is distributed across the whole surface of the fabric such that it takes on a subtly different sheen and colour, but brash sorts enjoy concentrating it into whole panels or graphic sections of gold. 75s.
- 10: Gem-Work. Baronials love gems and love jewellery, and find whatever excuse they can to incorporate them into their material culture. Jackets are no exception. Large gems are typically concentrated at the throat and wrists, and smaller stones sewn in patterned 'nets' across broad sections of fabric. Most Baronials will have their favourite hues, cuts, and combinations. Roll 3d6x10 to determine the value of those sewn into this particular piece.